How to Reframe a Mirror

Before

After

Mirrors can be really expensive when you buy them new at the store, and they might not have the right style you’re looking for. If you’re feeling crafty you can reframe a mirror that you find at a thrift store, inherited from your grandma, or freshen up one you already have!

You will end up with a nice looking mirror that costs a fraction of what it would cost to buy one.

Follow along with the tutorial below to see how to reframe a mirror yourself! You don’t need a lot of tools, and the project goes fairly quickly. Have fun!

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What you’ll need:

Materials:

Wood- 1 x 4 x 8 pine and 1 x 2 x 8 pine were used
Paper board backing (or cardboard)
Wood glue
Brad nails
Corner braces
Pocket hole screws (8) 1.25″
Wood filler
Stain- Varathane Dark Walnut was used
Polyurethane- Varathane Triple Thick was used
Sandpaper

Tools:

Step 1: Cut your wood

Since most people who see this tutorial will have a different sized mirror than what I was working with, I will quickly teach you how to find the dimensions for you wood when you make mitered corners like these. Alternatively, you can butt joint the wood so that you don’t need to miter the corners.
To find out the lengths you need, add double the width of the wood to your mirror measurement.
- For example: Let’s say the short end of your mirror is 12″ long, and you’re using 1 x 4 wood (which is actually 3/4″ thick x 3.5″ wide). The length of the wood needed would be: 12 + (3.5 x 2) = 19″
- Do the same calculation for the long side of your mirror. You will need two pieces of the short side, and 2 pieces of the long side.
Note: you’re doubling the *width* of the wood. So when you add the outside frame to this particular mirror style, the 1 x 2 piece (3/4″ thick x 1.5″ wide), you will actually double the 3/4″ because that piece of wood will be turned on its side.
Once you’ve figured out the lengths for each piece of wood, cut them the full length using your miter saw.

Step 2: Route the inset (optional, but awesome)

Measure how much mirror you want sitting in your frame and then route that much out. Here I did about 1″ and then cut that out on my router table with a 1/2″ bit, starting with the fence close and then moving it back to get all of the wood.
If you choose not to do this step, you can easily attach your mirror to the back of the wood with angled brackets. The mirror will just stick out behind the frame a little bit.

Reframed Mirror

Step 3: Miter the corners

Now you can use the miter saw again, turn it to the 45 degree angle, and cut those miters. Make sure you’re double checking the way the wood is facing before each cut! You want each angle to go inward. Do this for the inner and outer part of the frame.

Reframed Mirror

Step 4: Drill pocket holes

You will want to drill 2 pocket holes for each corner of the frame (not the outer rim). If you use wood that is ¾” thick like I did, you will set your pocket hole jig to the ¾” thickness.
Note: you can drill pocket holes into the angled wood! Just make sure the angled edge is sitting flat on the bottom of the jig.

Reframed Mirror

Step 5: Assemble

Then use 1.25” pocket hole screws and wood glue to attach each corner. See picture below!
You will also want to attach the outer frame with your nail gun and brad nails.

Reframed Mirror

Step 6: Fill holes and sand

If there are any unsightly holes, go ahead and fill them with wood filler, wait for it to dry, and then sand the whole thing down. I went to 220 grit sandpaper here with my awesome orbital sander.

Step 7: Stain and poly

Once the mirror frame is all smooth, wipe it clean and stain it. Here I did two coats of Varathane Dark Walnut stain. Love the color!
After the stain is dry, apply a coat or two of polyurethane with a paint brush. My favorite polyurethane is Varathane Triple Thick water-based. It self levels really well, and it won’t yellow your piece.

Reframed Mirror

Step 8: Cut backing and reinforce

Lay the mirror down in your frame, and double check the dimensions of what you will need your backing to be.
I had some leftover paper board backing from a previous project, but you can also just use cardboard for this!
Once you’ve cut your backing, you can secure it in with something like the metal braces you see below. They are a low-cost and sturdy option here, and they usually come with wood screws.

Reframed Mirror